A Tour of Old Canton


Using a late 19th century map as well as old photographs and coloured postcards, many taken over a century ago, our Spring gallery takes a nostalgic look at the old Chinese city of Canton, now known as Guangzhou.

Following the 'Opium Wars', Canton was first opened to foreign trade by the Treaty of Nanking in 1842. Following a disturbance, French and British forces occupied Canton in 1856. Later Shameen Island (now known as Shamian) in the Pearl River was ceded to them for business and residential purposes, being connected to Canton by two small bridges across a canal. Shameen's attractive broad avenues, gardens, and fine buildings contrasted sharply with the crowded, narrow but busy and enthralling streets of Old Canton.

Artisans, merchants and the general populace went about their daily business in the narrow crowded streets as they had done for centuries. Rickshaws and 'chair' carriers plied their trade in the cramped streets while passenger vessels, junks, sampans and houseboats crowded together in the Pearl River and adjoining canals.

To many Europeans unaccustomed to such a swarming mass of humanity, this could be a uniquely enthralling experience. But based on their own European ideals and standards, some were often bewildered or shocked by the scenes they encountered. Swarming coolies among the narrow streets, noisy street markets, the smell of open street sewers and reeking canals, the dirt, and the inevitable sight of beggars served to challenge many a more sensitive soul.

Our Missionaries took a great number of images of Canton and of old China to send back home. Many were made into lantern slides to illustrate popular Missionary talks to appreciative and enthralled Parish audiences who knew but little of this strange foreign world. These unique images still serve to give a vivid impression of early 20th century Canton, a world now of the past.

We would value your comments and feedback : pcanzarchives@knoxcollege.ac.nz We can supply copies of most of the images in this gallery upon request. Please refer to our "Hours & Charges" page.

Presbyterian Church Archives Research Centre Home Page

Donald Cochrane
Curator of Photographs

Part of a pre revolution map of Canton drawn by the Rev Daniel Vrooman of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (ABCFM) in 1860. Our tour takes us to Fatei (Fati) at lower left, onto Shameen Island in lower centre, the Steamer landing on the Pearl River at right, and then to the Temple of the 500 Genii in upper centre. These areas were outside the old City walls, being shown by the dark lines drawn in the upper right hand corner.

"A Bit of Shipping off Fati"

Taken in 1903, this image shows junks in the crowded Pearl River opposite Fatie [Fati], being on the opposite south west side of the river from Canton and close to Shameen Island. Note the timber raft in foreground.

"Missionaries on the Way to Rebuild the Waste Places at Lien Chow""

America Presbyterian Missionaries on two houseboats at Fatei (Fati), Canton, prior to leaving for Lien Chow to re-open a Mission Station destroyed 28 Oct 1905. The party to Lien Chow consisted of Rev AJ Fischer, Rev & Mrs Rees F. Edwards, Miss Elda Patterson (seated at front), Dr & Mrs Ross, Rev JS Kinkle & Dr EC Machle. The children of Rev & Mrs Edwards are pictured in the second boat.

Houseboats provided a relatively comfortable mode of travel. Many Missionaries, unaccustomed to the rigours of negotiating roughly formed country tracks on foot, resorted to travel by "chair" on long trips inland, being carried in a wicker chair suspended on poles by Chinese coolies.

"Foreign Concession, Shameen Island"

Most Europeans lived on Shameen Island bordering Canton City, ownership of land elsewhere by foreigners having previously been prohibited. The wide streets, well tended gardens and substantial dwellings were in stark contrast to the sights and sounds of old Canton.

"Shameen Bridge"

This attractive bridge across a canal connected Shameen Island with Canton City. The tent structure atop the bridge would presumably have provided shelter for officials controlling access to Shameen. Note the crowded wharf and the canal absolutely crammed with sampans.

"Canal at Shameen "

A view taken from Shameen Bridge looking down the crowded canal and street. The well-tended river bank on Shameen Island at left is in stark contrast to that of Canton City on the right.

"Temple of the The 500 Genii"

A glimpse inside this large Buddhist Temple due north of Shameen which was but one of numerous temples throughout the city. Such named temples in Canton included the Temple of Longevity, Temple of the 5 Genii, Temple of Horrors, Temple of Buddha, Temple of the Emperers, Confucian Temple, Taoist Temple, and the Temple of the God of War.

"Marco Polo"

A close-up of the 'representation' of Marco Polo, the great 13th century Venetian traveller, in the temple of the 500 Genii. Famed as the first European to travel from Europe and then throughout China, his travels and exploits have become legendary. It appears that such was his enduring reputation in China that this image was named for him so that one could make an offering and prayer to his spirit. It appears however, that this representation was a later convenient Chinese 'invention', the temple actually containing 500 figures of Arhans or Buddhist saints!

Eastwards from Shameen Island and past the Steamer Landing lies an area bordering the Pearl River which was later built up to form a wide concourse known as "The Bund". Honam lies on the opposite south bank of the river with the Roman Catholic Cathedral (marked "RCC") just inside the City wall at upper right.

"Pearl River From Canton"

This image appears to have been taken from Canton looking across the Pearl River to Honam Island. Shameen Island is just past the steamer wharf at far right. A rather large and elaborate junk is moored at left. The Bund, a large strip of land bordering the Pearl River, appears in the foreground.

"Pearl River from Honam"

A view taken from Honam Island looking across the busy Pearl River towards Canton City with the outline of White Cloud Mountain, 17 kilometers distant from Canton, at rear.

Canton had a 'floating' population of at least 100,000 souls. On its waterways could be found sampans, 'great' boats, slipper boats, cargo boats, coffin boats, passage boats, ferry boats, theatrical boats, flower boats, house boats, leper boats, police boats, guard boats, customs boats, fishing boats, gunboats, steamboats, floating restaurants and brothels, and steam launches.

"Canton Looking North East"

A view taken from near the steamer landing, looking north east along the Bund and over Canton city. The twin spired Catholic Cathedral stands out markedly on the city skyline.

"Dragon Procession on the Bund"

A large standing room only crowd watching a ceremonial 'dragon' procession making its way along the Bund, c.1911.

"Canal & Ferryboat"

A canal ferry man in the western suburbs with his punt moored beside a landing stage, stone steps leading down to the water's edge. The long poles propped up against the building at right may very well be his poles for moving the punt through the water. Taken July 1906.

Moving north east, the yet to be formed "Bund" and the Roman Catholic Cathedral now lie at lower bottom. The Temple of the 5 Genii lies at left of centre, the Gaol (marked "P") slightly to the right of the temple, and the Canton execution ground at lower right.

"Gambling Abolition Parade"

The Bund absolutely packed for the gambling abolition procession, 30th March 1911.

With the overthrow of the Imperial Ts'ing Dynasty, the people now felt they had 'a voice'. This procession appears to have been a strong response to the Provincial Assembly's decision (influenced by a powerful minority) to prohibit lotteries and make all gambling illegal.

"The Bund in Flood"

In 1915, the Pearl River which normally flowed 15 feet below the level of the Bund, rose to 2 feet above the Bund. This was accompanied by very serious flooding and damage to settlements in the Province which were built close to rivers and waterways.

"The Bund"

Another scene, taken in 1915, shows the busy Bund fronted by commercial buildings housing shops at street level. Rickshaws, the ideal form of transport to negotiate Canton's otherwise narrow streets, ply their trade.

A visitor to Canton compared the busy street scenes and the constant press of people to "Sydney given over to summer sales".

"Canton Rooftops & Roman Catholic Cathedral"

Taken in July 1906, the distinctive and traditional Chinese rooftops contrast sharply with the towering Roman Catholic Cathedral, with a backdrop of the White Cloud Mountain.

"Roman Catholic Cathedral"

Built from 1863 to 1888, this towering Gothic church, the largest in China, has been reopened and is now known as the Shishi Holy Heart Cathedral. To the Cantonese, this towering structure had originally only served to emphasize "political intrigue and French avarice rather than peace and goodwill".

"Method of Punishing a Thief "

This photo, taken in June 1906, is of a man caught stealing. He has been forced to humiliatingly sit outside the scene of his crime for several hours wearing a wooden collar on which the nature of his crime is written. Later he was taken to prison. A man standing guard is not shown in the image.

"Inmates of Canton Gaol"

A guard in foreground pictured with 13 inmates, all shackled together with leg chains. Some may have been jailed for robbery which was then rife. The fate of almost all robbers, if guilty of murder, was execution by beheading or being tortured first by the feared "Ling Ch'ih" which ultimately lead to an often prolonged & agonizing death.

"[the robbers] are normally well armed... Compared with robbers in some districts, however, the [local] ones are gentlemen. As a rule they merely require your money or your life, not your money and your life. But if the former is not forthcoming, little mercy is shown."

"Temple of the 5 Genii"

Taken in 1915, this image shows the five idols with their long beards in the smaller Buddhist Temple of the 5 Genii.

"Hat & Shoe Stall"

Plying his wares at a pavement stall, this street seller waits for prospective customers.

"They are quick and alert. Their skill at driving a bargain may be gauged from a common saying that when the Cantonese enters, the Aberdonian [traditionally famed for being miserly] had better retire".

"Canal Scene, Canton"

A rustic and peaceful scene of houseboats on a canal running though a suburb of Canton. Taken July 1906.

Moving north, the Governor & Viceroy's compounds are located in lower centre with the Five Storied Pagoda on the city wall (outlined in dark ink) at upper centre. The White Cloud Hills rise to the north west of Canton City, partly indicated by the closely drawn contour lines.

"A Room Full of Genii"

Taken in 1913, this image shows idols removed from shrines and other sites in Canton.

"Idols gathered by the Canton Police in the yamen of the Commission of Education, from streets, shrines, gateways, etc."

"After the Great Fire"


Taken after the "Great Fire" in 1915, this image shows but a fraction of the devastating damage caused when 2,800 homes were burnt near 13th Street. Buildings and streets were built in very close proximity to each other and this offered almost no protection when a fire broke out.

"A Chinese Apothecary & Dentist Shop"

The items suspended on strings from the ceiling are teeth which were the trademark and advertising method of an old style Chinese Dentist. If a patient needed a tooth, the Dentist chose a suitable human tooth from his stock in trade and merely shaped it to fit the new owner. Chinese Dentists pulled teeth with their bare fingers requiring them to constantly keep their fingers in good tone. This photograph is attributed to Mr CR Hager of the Basel Mission and dated circa 1906.